March 15, 1997
TASMANIA
The ferry arrived on schedule at 8:30 a.m. in the town of Devonport. The ferry ride
across the Bass Strait was relaxing. Dinner and breakfast were included. I have decided to
ride down the west coast -the hilly part of the island.
The first town to see was Sheffield, "The town of murals". The history of
the area is depicted in the murals. The murals made for a picturesque scene in this little
town. The evening accommodations were in a backpacker in the town of Gowie Park. The place
was an old recreation center. It was large and clean. Being out of the way of most
travelers the only guests were a German cyclist and myself. The place was a good value at
only 8.50 for my own room.
The town of Gowie Park is situated in a natural amphitheater beneath the four mountain
peaks of Mt. Roland, Mt. Van Dyke, Mt. Claude, and Round Mountain. The authentic timber
buildings, built in the pioneer tradition, include a blacksmiths, stables and a barn. The
restaurant has the largest shingle roof in the southern hemisphere. This location is a
great place for people looking for relaxation off the beaten path.
March 16, 1997
CRADLE MOUNTAIN
The journey brought me to Cradle Mountain. This park is a World Heritage Area covering
161,108ha of rugged mountain peaks and alpine moor lands and includes Mount Ossa (1617
meters), the highest mountain in Tasmania. At the base of Cradle Mountain is Dove Lake.
Around Dove Lake is a 6 km walk with excellent views of Cradle Mt., the massive tree
trunks of the eerie Ballroom Forest, and the remarkable pandani grove on the east side of
the lake. I set up camp inside the park at a camping ground, with all the facilities. The
weather at nighttime is becoming close to freezing temperature. With Tasmania being a
small island so far south the climatic conditions must be monitored closely.
March 18, 1997
STRAHAN TASMANIA
Situated on the Macquarie Harbor, Strahan's major industries include fishing, aqua
culture, and forestry. A river boat cruise can be taken to Sarah Island Historic Site
established as a penal site in 1822 and earned a notorious reputation for its hash
treatment and appalling conditions. Hush pine and limestone was extracted from the lower
reaches of the Gordon and Franklin rivers by use of convict labor. I spent the night in
the YHA for shelter from the elements. The weather is turning foul. The days ride was 65
km from outside of Rosebery to Strahan. After a few climbs in the morning, it turned
pleasant. The southwest coast of Tasmania is known for its spectacular and rugged scenery.
March 19, 1997
STRAHAN TO QUEENSTOWN
Queenstown is a combination of historic buildings surrounded by the naked hills of
copper mines. Mount Lyell Mine has been a major producer of copper since 1893 and is the
oldest working mine in Australia. Several tours are available in the area, however, the
destruction from years of mining was too much to fathom. The landscape is similar to the
moon with a lunar surface. The locals think it gives them a tourist attraction -HELLO! I
intended on riding further, but the rain had me soaked .
March 20, 1997
QUEENSTOWN TO HOBART
The weather is winning the battle. I have broken down and will board a bus towards the
city of Hobart. This bus ride should bring me to clear skies. The weather patterns of the
West Coast are different from the East Coast of Tasmania. Hobart being the capital city of
the state has numerous things to view. Today the USS Kitty Hawk is in port. This aircraft
carrier has a crew of 5500 persons. I arrived in town this evening to see the crew of the
ship roaming the streets. The seamen appeared in control and enjoying their stay. After
exploring the downtown area, I called a mate (Leon) that I befriended on the ferry ride
from Melbourne. The congeal Aussie welcome continues and he invited me to his homestead
for the night. It was a relaxing evening with his new love Kathy and her daughter
Greta(13).
March 21, 1997
HOBART, TASMANIA
Hanging with my new mates in Hobart. I had some good conversation with Leon and
friends throughout the day. Then in the afternoon I went for a bush walk with Greta and
her 4 month old pup, Molly. The walk was scenic thru a rain forest on Mt. Wellington. The
trail passed O'Gradys waterfall which was elegantly flowing thru the dense bush. My
walking partner, Greta, wants to say a few words:
Tassi is at the end of the world, right at the bottom down under. Molly is my
beautiful puppy who is obsessed with food and bones. She is the color of sand and she has
beautiful green eyes and freckles on her nose. When we were coming back from the walk I
felt something wet at the bottom of my leg, I pulled up my trousers and there was blood
oozing out everywhere, it was a leech. A black creature that's 2-4 centimeters, it's
slimy, black and somehow attaches to you without you feeling it, it sucks as much blood as
it can and when it can suck no more it drops off, maybe on the ground maybe in your boot!
The Beatles rule! They are the best in the world. I just thought I might tell you that
I'm 13 years old (nearly 14) and I'm in grade nine at high school. I play the piano and
the cello, I also play hockey and netball and I love animals. A few facts about Mount
Wellington, it is a magnificent natural feature of Hobart at 1,270 meters, is one of the
state's highest peaks. The mountain is within close proximity to the city and a trip to
the summit affords spectacular views of Hobart and the Derwent River. The Derwent River
links Hobart to the Tasman Sea. Mount Wellington and the adjoining Wellington Ranges offer
a number of walks.
Hi - I'm Greta's Mum Kathy, and Tim is hassling me to type a few words. Well where do
I begin. Um, I love living in Hobart, and moved here from Melboune about 10 years ago.
We've got some nice things planned for tomorrow and we are really enjoying Tim's company.
I've never traveled to your end of the world but I know lots about you because my Mum has
spent a lot of time over there. By the way the Leeches Greta was talking about actually
drop out of trees and leech on to you when you're walking along. Bye for now, cheers,
Kathy
March 22, 1997
The sun came shining through. In the morning I went for a bush walk in the rain forest
on Mount Wellington with my new mates. We hiked in the bush among many gum trees and
ferns. There are many varieties of gum trees around the world, yet the only place left on
the globe that the leatherwood (eucryphia lucida) species of gum tree remains is on the
west coast of Tasmania. In the afternoon we travel to the ever popular Salamanca Market
which is open to the public year round and should be experienced. The market has rows of
stalls varying from bric-a-brac, clothing, unique and original crafts, to plants and
flowers. I purchased some leatherwood honey for sampling. The atmosphere is festive with
live local music.
March 23, 1997
HOBART, TASMANIA
This morning I visited an old signal station on Mt. Nelson. The station functions as a
navigator and a transfer agent from ship and other stations. Several hill top stations
would relay information thru lights used as codes to pass important happenings. Such
topics would be; a prisoner escape from Port Arthur, a ship requesting help from the sea
or important info for a waiting family. This afternoon I went on a bush walk with friends
on Mt. Wellington. Greta has returned from spending the night with friends.
I'm back and I missed my Molly very much. I stuffed myself full with party food and I
bought my friend a cow for a birthday present. Now I have to do some homework I should
have done yesterday.
March 24,. 1997
Today was overcast and not very warm. The sunrise this morning was amazing red and
deep orange changing to pale blue.
RESTING AND RELAXING, Tim
March 25, 1997
More from Greta:
Boring day at school. I went for short walk with Molly and now I have to do heaps of
homework. Tim was a dick head today! He went mountain climbing with his bike on his back
instead of his butt on his bike! He nearly reached the moon. When he got back he was
plum-tuckered out! We gave him a hot bath and sent him to bed with a flea in his ear.
March 26, 1997
One more day in Hobart, Tasmania. The company has been too good to leave. This capital
city on the Derwent River feels like home. The locals are from a lost era where living in
harmony is a way of life. My friend Leon has prepared some of the finest cuisine for tea
each night. The next few days of four minute rice dishes are going to be painful. Well my
Tas mates have a few last words:
I'm here to dob Tim in he's not as smart as he lets on, he's got a spell check on his
computer. I just thought I'd let those be my last words! Just to show you what kind of a
really nice human being I am. (not) Greta
I've been told that Tim has written something about me somewhere in this goddamn thing
so I thought I'd better say a few words in my defense. Seriously - I'm really sad and so
is Kathy because Tim is leaving us tomorrow and we're really going to miss him, especially
when we have to do the dishes ourselves. It's been nice to meet another human being. As
I'm sure you already know, people like Tim are few and far between. We met him by chance
only a week ago but feel like he's family already. We wish you well Tim in your travels
and hope to meet again some day. Cheers, Leon and Kathy
March 27, 1997
Departed Hobart on the bike to ride up the East Coast. The good-bye was difficult. My
new mates and I have formed a bond that will last a lifetime. Throughout the day I had a
feeling of bliss towards others. As I listen to John Lennon's music as he sings about
peace and getting along I imagine it really could be achieved. If we trust and respect our
fellow man and Mother Earth. One could think I have lost my marbles. However, have you
been drinking mountain spring water from its flowing rivers lately? Daily I have this
pleasure. Also, my journeys have taken me into peoples homes as pure as these rivers. The
point is be aware of your effects on society for today as well as tomorrow. Therefore
everyone can live in peace together. Instant Karma.
March 28, 1997
ORFORD, TASMANIA
The East Coast is a popular part of the State, offering a kaleidescope of colors,
sparkling in the warmth of sunshine, along with its endless stretch of beaches,
magnificent reserves, great ocean surf and superb sea fishing. Only a small population is
dispersed along the coastline leaving this beautiful part of Tasmania still relatively
unspoiled. Sounds like a place in heaven as I read the tour guide book. However, the scene
at the moment is 30-plus mph winds with sheets of rain pounding my tent. Last night's
storm was so harsh that I braved the elements and found higher ground for my tent. I was
about to go underwater...without a snorkel. As my shelter dances in the elements, I wait
for a break to view some of this epic scenery. The sky cleared for a moment, which allowed
me to seek shelter in the town of Triabunna at the YHA.
The cozy hostel had some interesting people. After chopping some lumber for the
hostel, the host invited me up for tea. Some of the quality services they provide is fresh
organic produce- right from the garden. Also, local fresh fish can to obtain thru the
hostel. This place has been rated four dogs. The scale is based on the four border collies
that roam the grounds. The ferry to Maria Island can be boarded in Triabunna which is a
nice day of sight seing.
March 29, 1997
BICHENO
The ride was epic along the Tasman Sea. The coastal route views were magnificent. The
scenery was so beautiful the miles seemed to go by with no effort. The East Coast's white
sandy beaches are deserted, which the crystal clear blue surf of the Tasman Sea breaks
upon. I stayed at the YHA in Bicheno for a cost of ten dollars. The hostel was on the
beach. The surf could be heard throughout the night while the stars illuminated the sky
over the Tasman Sea. All the constellations are reversed down under. The other side of a
full moon reflects a bad boy face.
March 30, 1997
Happy Easter
Allow me to introduce myself - my name is Jason. I had the pleasure of meeting Tim, at
the Bicheno, Tasmania YHA. It was good to see someone else who intends to (and who is)
cycling the world. I left Queensland in Nov. of 95, with the aim of cycling the best
country in the world; in a rough time-frame of two years. If you ask me now, 'How long do
you intend to be gone for?', I will answer, 'About two years.'. I am enjoying myself too
much to put a close to this chapter of my life. In-fact, that's why I'm doing this- I
nearly had the book of my life closed on me, at the start of 1993. A very servere car
accident put me in hospital, with a fractured C1, for just about a year. This made me
really appreciate life; and to make the most of every precious moment I have. I strongly
encourage all of you to do that, too. Don't keep saying, "Maybe tomorrow.', or, 'I
will one day.': That day may never come! Do it while you still can! Take care, enjoy life,
have fun and stay happy!
JASON '97
SKELETON POINT CAMPSITE
March 31, 1997
BINALONG BAY
On Sunday, I continued up the East Coast to Binalong Bay and set up camp at Skeleton
Point on the tip of this peninsula. This picturesque bay with white sandy beaches
overlooks the Bay of Fires. The coast has some bright orange moss on the rocks which is
particular to the area. Both sea birds and wild bush birds are abundant. Many of the
beaches or coves can be enjoyed all by yourself. Today I rode thru Weldborough Pass Scenic
Reserve. The pedal through this rain forest was full of myrtle, sassafras, and leatherwood
trees. The pleasure of the ride, was that the road was closed to automobiles, because of a
closed bridge. However, it was passable by foot or bike. A couple of locals panning for
gems were amazed to see me this deep in the bush. I continued to the outskirts of Derby.
At which point a local transplanted woman from France, assisted my goal in making the
ferry on Tuesday. She gave me a lift for a 150 km towards the town of Launceston. The
conversation was informative to many of the culture ways of Tasmania. Then with night
approaching I continued to cycle towards Devonport to reach the ferry.
April 1, 1997
DEPART TASMANIA
I'm in Devonport to board the ferry back to Melbourne. The overnight sailing across
the Bass Strait will arrive in port at 8:30 am. The Island of Tasmania will receive the
two thumbs up rating. The laid back natives always welcome travelers with open arms. With
the reasonable cost of goods and services, an affordable trip can be planned. Tasmania is
Australia's smallest and most southerly state. Its mild temperature and maritime climate
make the summer months ideal for outdoor activity. 20% of its area classified as World
Heritage area, i.e. area of outstanding natural and cultural significance. Tasmania has
drinking water and air among the purest in the world, and in an area the size of
Switzerland, it has only 450,000 inhabitants. A few experiences a visit to Tasmania will
include are; an alpine lake ringed with trees thousands of years old, watched over by a
rugged peak. A deserted beach: white sand, crashing waves, rain forest creeping to its
edge. A country lane: sandstone mansions one hundred and fifty years old, birds singing,
the hum of bicycle tires. The beauty, the peace, and the charm are what Tasmania has
waiting to explore.
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